Honnavar - Goa - Mumbai
Before we ended our road trip to Goa, we made a stop in the area of Honavar. India has a lot of coastline with multiple backwaters flowing into the mainland. Honavar is one of the places that has backwaters, just not as big as elsewhere. We booked a homestay and were welcomed by a lovely older couple who built a new house and turned it into a homestay. You could clearly see that they had a lot more money than the others in the neighbourhood because almost everything was done in marble. To end our day, we walked to the mangroves and the beach.
During our walk, a lot of people greeted us and asked where we came from. When we answered Belgium, most of them looked confused and repeated it. They probably have no clue where Belgium is, but nice to come across some cheerful, friendly people. On our way to the beach, we got picked up by one of the people we met earlier and insisted on hopping into the car even though it was only four minutes walking to the beach. The beach was very clean which made sense because it was called Ecobeach and we waited there to see the sunset and spotted some dolphins.
The next morning, it was time to set foot on a boat again! Not on the sea, but in the backwaters. Everywhere in the region, you find small decorated boats that take you through the vines of the backwaters-a nice, relaxing trip to start the morning.
Not long after, we got back in the car and headed to Calangute, Goa. This place is most known for its nightlife and party vibe but that’s not why we wanted to go there. Despite our efforts to experience the Indian lifestyle, we were not able to stay with a family via Workaway. It’s a bummer but we saw this as an opportunity to get some rest and explore Goa and its surroundings. I, Arnaud, got sick and had a bit of a fever when we arrived so it turned out to be a good thing after all.
The hotel we picked was fancier than what we stayed in so far during our trip but most importantly a continental breakfast. That way Delphine could enjoy sweet things like bread with Nutella and Arnaud could enjoy different Indian dishes every morning. We were also able to watch the last episode of Territory, but it didn’t feel the same without John and Judy. Still a thrilling episode.
Our first night exploring the neighbourhood and trying to find a good restaurant we immediately noticed that there were a lot of tourists. Sadly enough not the good kind-we saw a lot of disrespect toward the local people at the pubs and restaurants. So, for future meals, we decided to skip the touristy restaurants and find places where the locals like to eat.
Since the initial plan of travelling through India was to go from Chennai to Goa by bike, we still wanted to drive a motorcycle in India. During our road trips, we came across a lot of different bikes, but there was one that got our attention-the Royal Enfield. After some research and trying to find the rental that was not where Google Maps thought it was, we were able to rent a classic 350. To our surprise this bike is really easy to get used to, shifting is smooth as butter and the saddle is heaven for the butt. The only thing left to do was hop on and start exploring.
Starting with Panaji in South Goa, a town that had a lot of Portuguese influence and is even today still noticeable. The houses are cute and have these beautiful colours. You also see the famous blue and white tiles from Portugal. It feels like a small Portuguese town that needs some renovations. On our way back to the hotel we passed a nice blue and white church. We didn’t stay very long in the town so that Arnaud could get some more rest, which was needed. The next day he was feeling bad again, which made us stay in the hotel for most of the day. We took a small trip to Fort Aguada not far from our hotel. The fort gives a nice view of the ocean and coastline. So we walked around and enjoyed the view.
A new day and a better day for Arnaud. So we left the hotel in the morning to visit Old Goa. Just the perfect time to experience rush hour. Cars, scooters and bikes are everywhere on the streets. No lines or rules on where to drive or how to pass someone. We got into a small argument with a scooter driver but eventually got to Old Goa without injuries. Thank god Arnaud was driving!
Arriving in Old Goa, it was less crowded and more quiet. Crossing through the city, visiting a cathedral, church, museum and rune. A view of Inda back in the day. It made us forget the hectic morning we experienced and gave us some more energy. We took the bike en drove further to the Cumbarjua Canal, where a colony of crocodiles lives. We tried to spot some but unfortunately didn’t find them. A little disappointed, we drove further and were surprised by the quiet road surrounded by nature. Until we had to cross the river with a ferry. Not that special you would think, but the Indian mentality makes it stressful and chaotic. No patience to let each other park but pushing and shouting to get as many people on it. Again thank god Arnaud was driving at that moment. Of course, Delphine drove some parts as well, just when it was a bit easier.
The crazy traffic didn’t hold us back from visiting a local spice farm. The owner of the farm gave us a warm welcome with a cold herb tea and some snacks. She guided us through their garden with all the spices they grow. Because the fields are big and a bit further away, they have a smaller version next to the farm. It was like a little tropical forest filled with different trees, bushes and plants. We learned where nutmeg comes from and how they use palm leaves as cups. All our senses got triggered during the walk-we smelt some herbs, tasted fruits, saw nice flowers, and heard different birds. As a cherry on top, we got a homemade meal of course made with their spices. And as always it was way too much of us, especially with the heat. We just made sure to try at least everything that was on the table.
Enough eating for a while, time for some shopping! Or so we thought when we went to the Anjuna market but that thought didn’t last long. As expected, we got bothered the whole time. Stall owners shout to go inside, grabbing our arm to get our attention or starting a conversation to make a connection and sell something. Not really a relaxing way to shop and not something we like. After giving in on buying some cute stuff we decided to get some real Indian relaxation, a … massage. This is a massage known in India to be relaxing and healing. Exactly what we need (we, as in Delphine mostly). One hour and a half later we left the place relaxed and very oily. We dropped the bike off, got a taxi, and took a good shower.
Relaxed and ready for a new adventure, we prepared ourselves for a sleeper train to Mumbai. This was something we really wanted to do in India, and while we were excited, we were also a little unsure of what to expect. As we could have expected, the train was late, three hours late. On top of that, our stop was cancelled. Other than that, the train ride wasn’t bad at all. The bed were a bit hard but good enough to sleep on, and it was quiet. You get some blankets and a pillow, which we didn’t expect. That and the fact that the drive took three hours longer than expected, we enjoyed a decent amount of sleep.
We ended up in Thane around 10 in the morning and now needed to find a way to our hostel. Our cabin buddy advised us to take a couple of trains instead of a taxi due to heavy traffic jams. We followed his advice and hopped on the train - literally! The train only stops for a couple of seconds. People jump on and off even when the train is still or already moving. To our surprise, the journey on the local train was smooth and easy. People helped us find the right train and when to get off. It felt like people here were more friendly and helpful.
Since we had lost some time with the train, there wasn’t much time left that day. After we checked in at the hostel, we walked around discovering the neighbourhood. We made our way to the coastline, only to see that it was heavily polluted -not a place to sit and enjoy the sound of the waves. To make the most of our evening, we searched for something we really wanted to see-a Bollywood movie. We looked through all the options at different cinemas, but finding a Bollywood movie with English subtitles seemed impossible. We decided to take a tuk-tuk or a three-wheeled car, which turned out to be our most stressful ride ever, to a cinema that had a good selection of movies. Since subtitles weren’t available, we decided to watch Wicked instead. While it wasn’t Bollywood, it still had plenty of dancing, which gave us a bit of that Bollywood vibe. Because of the love for Bollywood movies, the Indians also like cinemas. You can find them everywhere and they can be very fancy.
And then, the moment came we were most curious about, meeting a family in the slums. Thanks to the same amazing couple who had booked our trip to the wildlife reserve, we were allowed to visit the woman’s family. Luckily, we got clear instructions on how to get there. Upon arrival, we were immediately welcomed very warmly. For us, it wasn’t the kind of slum we imagined based on media and stuff like that. It didn’t smell bad, and some houses were made of stone, like the one we visited. We learned that there are different types of slums and that generations work very hard to improve their homes. The family that welcomed us lives in a small but charming house with a tiny toilet, kitchen, living room and an additional level on top. This wasn’t always the case. The house had been improved over the years and only got a level last year. Next to that, the house is usually shared with multiple people and all the rooms are small, compared to what we’re used to in Belgium.
First, they wanted to prepare lunch, so in the meantime, we got to know their nephews a bit by listening to their favourite music, playing chess and asking about school and their future dreams. When lunch was ready, we all gathered in the living room, which was once the entire house. During the amazing meal, more family members joined and were surprised to stumble upon two Belgian visitors. We got to meet different family members like the mother, sister, nephews, brother, and aunts. Since the sister spoke fluent English, she was going to guide us through the neighbourhood and translate between us and the family. In that way, we got to know everyone a bit and while we didn’t understand every conversation, we loved being in their company and watching them interact. There was plenty of laughter, some questions and a short language lesson.
Before tea time, we went for a short walk around the neighbourhood together with the sister. We visited their old school, their father’s former workplace, the local park and a small temple. People from around stopped and started to ask who we were. Some even asked us to visit them as well. Back at the house, there was some traditional chai tea and all the women of the family waiting on us. They started asking us about our plans in India, and before we realized, one of the aunts asked us if she could take us to the Gateway of India. We didn’t want to impose, but they were so excited that we couldn’t say no. and we were so glad we didn’t! We got picked up by her son in a Honda and together with the sister and aunt, we drove all the way to South Mumbai. But they didn’t just take us to the Gateway of India, no, they gave us a full evening guided tour around Mumbai. Almost all the famous places of Mumbai were included; Nariman Point, the region where all the famous actors live, the Basilica of Our Lady of the Mount, the new sea bridge and the mosque built on the sea. all of this, in a car full of happy laughing people. We had no idea what to expect from this day but we never imagined this!
Fun fact: Mumbai is 50 times smaller than Belgium, but Mumbai has a population of 20 million.
With most of our must-see places already done, there was more time to see other things! Enjoying the trains we took one again to Fort, one of Mumbai’s more touristy areas. More tourists meant finally finding a souvenir to add to our collection. When we walked around, we noticed a more Western vibe and some beautiful buildings. To get to the last place we wanted to visit, we took a bus. Not as easy as the train, it appears. First, not all buses have English translations on them. Second, they don’t always stop and if they stop it is only for a few seconds. Once we found our bus and got on, naturally we wanted to pay. Showing our destination on our phone, they just said: ’No’. Luckily, somebody came to help and eventually, we managed to get a ticket and arrived at our destination, the Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Museum-the oldest museum in Mumbai. The idea started in 1850 to create the greatest exhibition of the works of industry of all nations and display industrial arts and crafts of Britain’s colonies. Everything in the museum is well preserved and displayed with much information.
At last, we went to Dhobi Ghat’s open-air washing place, the place where most hotels and hospitals go to get their clothes or linens fresh and clean. It was fascinating to see all the clothes hanging everywhere. Even though they have to work hard every day and wash heaps of clothes, they still don’t earn the wages they truly deserve.
That makes the end of a challenging adventure with ups and downs in India. It is one of the most colourful countries we have ever visited. The clothes, buildings, food, everything adds colour to your day. That’s exactly what we want to take with us. Let’s create some more colour together. To the people of India, we hope they can grow some more respect. Respect for themselves, for one another and for nature. I, Arnaud, think that these three weeks were not enough to fully understand and know how everything goes in India, and I would like to give it another shot in the future.